“Chocolate, Mocha, Espresso?” — Rethinking How We Name Deeper Skin Tones in Beauty
In an industry that thrives on the power of words, from marketing buzz to product storytelling the names we assign to foundation and concealer shades hold more weight than we often acknowledge.
Beauty has come a long way in diversifying its complexion offerings. From once offering five vague shades of beige, we now see extensive foundation ranges that promise inclusivity. But one issue persists: the way deeper shades are named.
If you’ve browsed foundation lines recently, you’ve likely seen this pattern:
Mocha
Chocolate
Espresso
Caramel
Cocoa
Hazelnut
At first glance, these may sound luxurious or indulgent. But when you look deeper, the naming of darker shades after edible items, particularly desserts and drinks, reveals a subtle yet persistent form of othering.
🍫 The Problem With Food-Based Shade Names
Let’s be clear — there’s nothing wrong with chocolate or coffee. These names are familiar, comforting, and evocative. But when they’re almost exclusively used to describe darker skin tones, the effect becomes reductive.
⚖️ Here's what happens:
Objectification: Referring to skin as something consumable can unintentionally sexualise or fetishise darker complexions.
Lack of Nuance: These names often ignore undertones (warm, cool, olive, red) and make it harder for consumers to find accurate matches.
Uneven Representation: Lighter shades often receive names like Ivory, Porcelain, Alabaster, or Shell , words that evoke delicacy, elegance, and even purity. Meanwhile, deeper tones are assigned names rooted in food and indulgence.
Cultural Stereotypes: The repetition of food names can subtly reinforce dated tropes about race and consumption, especially when seen across campaigns, collections, and retailers.
This double standard isn't just an aesthetic choice, it’s a branding decision with cultural weight.
🧠 Why Naming Matters So Much
Shade names aren't just about colour, they evoke emotion, identity, and belonging. A name can make someone feel seen or alienated. Celebrated or commodified.
In the beauty industry, inclusive shade naming:
Builds trust with diverse consumers
Signals intention behind inclusivity (beyond just "adding more shades")
Demonstrates cultural competence and brand awareness
It's not just what you name, but how you name it and why.
🧪 How Can We Do Better?
It’s time for brands to rethink their approach and craft shade names that speak to depth, heritage, and individuality, not just dessert menus. Here are better, more empowering alternatives:
🌿 1. Nature-Inspired Names
Think about the natural world and the spectrum it offers:
Sienna
Obsidian
Amber
Terracotta
Mahogany
Sandstone
These evoke earthy, grounded imagery while offering neutrality and richness.
🌍 2. Culturally-Informed Names
With respectful research and consultation, brands can draw inspiration from global beauty, geography, and heritage:
Nubia
Zanzibar
Kemet
Calabar
Bronzed Lagos
Note: cultural names should never be tokenistic or Superficial Inclusion , they should be rooted in authentic stories and inclusive development processes.
🎨 3. Undertone-Based Naming
Take a cue from professional makeup artists and dermatologists:
Deep Neutral
Rich Warm
Cool Ebony
Golden Bronze
This approach is functional, descriptive, and removes unnecessary flair. Ideal for consumers looking for precision.
🔢 4. Shade Coding Systems
Brands like MAC and Fenty Beauty have successfully embraced numeric systems (e.g., 410, 430N) that allow for technical consistency without relying on stereotypical names. Pairing this with undertone descriptors offers a high-utility, low-bias alternative.
💡 Naming Is Strategy, Not Afterthought
The beauty industry is evolving and so should the language that shapes it. Naming is a powerful tool in product storytelling. When done intentionally, it can:
Foster inclusivity
Avoid microaggressions
Empower consumers to connect emotionally with products
Differentiate your brand as one that listens, learns, and leads
📣 Final Thoughts: It's More Than Just a Name
If we want a beauty industry that truly sees everyone, we must go beyond expanding foundation shade ranges. We must rethink the language we use to define and describe people’s identities.
Inclusive shade naming isn't just good practice, it’s a statement of values.
✨ Ready to Reimagine Your Shade Strategy?
At Beauty Compliance Hub, we help brands develop inclusive, thoughtful, and globally resonant product names, from concept to compliance.
💌 Reach out to us: Info@beautycompliancehub.com
🌐 Explore more: www.beautycompliancehub.com
📲 Follow us on Instagram & LinkedIn: @beautycompliancehub
Let’s build an industry where everyone feels named, seen, and celebrated.